Dinh Van-designed Cartier Gold Ring, ca. 1955
GUEST: I brought in a ring that I found at an estate sale a couple of months ago. It was a dark room, it was a junk jewelry bin, and it had a five-dollar price tag. And I just thought it was cool, so I picked it up. When I got to better lighting, I saw little markings. So I investigated a little bit further, and it kind of piqued my interest even more from what I saw.
APPRAISER: What'd you see?
GUEST: The 18 karats was what I saw first. And then I saw the Cartier name.
APPRAISER: Ah.
GUEST: And then also another name which seemed Vietnamese.
APPRAISER: Yeah.
GUEST: I looked it up a little bit, and it seems like they were a designer for Cartier for a certain time.
APPRAISER: Well, you're absolutely correct. It is by a designer named Dinh Van, who worked for Cartier in the 1950s. And he opened his own shop in 1965. And he made very unusual rings, especially for a traditional jeweler like Cartier. Just some funky shapes.
GUEST: Mm-hmm.
APPRAISER: Now, you also told me something special about this ring.
GUEST: That it comes apart--it comes into two pieces. Yep!
APPRAISER: That's amazing. (laughs) That is so great. I loved it, and...
GUEST: I'm glad you think it's as cool as I do! (laughs)
APPRAISER: 'Cause it's three rings in one.
GUEST: Yeah.
APPRAISER: We have the 18-karat white gold portion of the ring on top and the 18-karat yellow gold on the bottom. On the yellow gold ring, it is stamped on the side "Cartier 18k Dinh Van." My guess would be that these are from the late '50s, maybe early '60s. I was looking up for similar rings from Dinh Van for Cartier, and I found other rings like this, but not the exact same thing. And those were selling, at retail, for $6,000 to $8,000.
GUEST: Oh, wow.
APPRAISER: I would definitely put that ring in with that group, because it is so unique and so different. That's quite the five-dollar find!
GUEST: (laughs): Yeah, you can't beat that. That's pretty good return.
APPRAISER: I'd never seen anything like that, that unscrews, and I've seen quite a few bits of jewelry in my day.
GUEST: Oh, that's so cool-- that's cool to know.

$6,000 - $8,000 Retail
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Understanding Our Appraisals
Executive producer Marsha Bemko shares her tips for getting the most out of ANTIQUES ROADSHOW.
Value can change: The value of an item is dependent upon many things, including the condition of the object itself, trends in the market for that kind of object, and the location where the item will be sold. These are just some of the reasons why the answer to the question "What's it worth?" is so often "It depends."
Note the date: Take note of the date the appraisal was recorded. This information appears in the upper left corner of the page, with the label "Appraised On." Values change over time according to market forces, so the current value of the item could be higher, lower, or the same as when our expert first appraised it.
Context is key: Listen carefully. Most of our experts will give appraisal values in context. For example, you'll often hear them say what an item is worth "at auction," or "retail," or "for insurance purposes" (replacement value). Retail prices are different from wholesale prices. Often an auctioneer will talk about what she knows best: the auction market. A shop owner will usually talk about what he knows best: the retail price he'd place on the object in his shop. And though there are no hard and fast rules, an object's auction price can often be half its retail value; yet for other objects, an auction price could be higher than retail. As a rule, however, retail and insurance/replacement values are about the same.
Verbal approximations: The values given by the experts on ANTIQUES ROADSHOW are considered "verbal approximations of value." Technically, an "appraisal" is a legal document, generally for insurance purposes, written by a qualified expert and paid for by the owner of the item. An appraisal usually involves an extensive amount of research to establish authenticity, provenance, composition, method of construction, and other important attributes of a particular object.
Opinion of value: As with all appraisals, the verbal approximations of value given at ROADSHOW events are our experts' opinions formed from their knowledge of antiques and collectibles, market trends, and other factors. Although our valuations are based on research and experience, opinions can, and sometimes do, vary among experts.
Appraiser affiliations: Finally, the affiliation of the appraiser may have changed since the appraisal was recorded. To see current contact information for an appraiser in the ROADSHOW Archive, click on the link below the appraiser's picture. Our Appraiser Index also contains a complete list of active ROADSHOW appraisers and their contact details and biographies.


