{"id":21604,"date":"2021-01-20T17:17:51","date_gmt":"2021-01-21T01:17:51","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.pbs.org\/independentlens\/?post_type=blog&#038;p=21604"},"modified":"2023-03-27T17:48:12","modified_gmt":"2023-03-27T17:48:12","slug":"working-womens-wardrobe-how-the-1970s-opened-feminist-fashion","status":"publish","type":"blog","link":"https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/blog\/working-womens-wardrobe-how-the-1970s-opened-feminist-fashion\/","title":{"rendered":"Working Women&#8217;s Wardrobe: How the 1970s Opened Feminist Fashion"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong>By Marlen Komar<\/strong><\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In the early 1970s, a group of Boston secretaries came together to improve the working conditions in their offices. Tired of low pay, lack of advancement opportunities, and constant sexual harassment, they created the group 9to5, which would eventually grow into a nationwide revolution that would change the American workplace for women. <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/to.pbs.org\/39jtqTs\"><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a09to5: The Story of a Movement <\/span><\/i><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">captures this previously untold story of the feminist movement that solely focused on opening opportunities for working women\u2014both in boardrooms and in their closets. <\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">As women demanded regular salary reviews, written job descriptions, equal access to promotion opportunities, and benefits equal to men in similar job categories (women made 59 cents to every dollar,) some women also demanded freedom in their office wardrobes.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Feminists recognized that fashion was (<em>is!<\/em>) political for many women, and even more so in the male-dominated workplace, where women were expected to play a passive and supportive role. While most women wore feminine dresses and pantyhose, or stylish pantsuits with womanly accents to work, feminists had a different idea of what would get women ahead in their corporate climb. Let\u2019s explore what those wardrobe staples would have looked like, versus what women were actually required to wear.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n\n\t\t<style type=\"text\/css\">\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 {\n\t\t\t\tmargin: auto;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 .gallery-item {\n\t\t\t\tfloat: left;\n\t\t\t\tmargin-top: 10px;\n\t\t\t\ttext-align: center;\n\t\t\t\twidth: 25%;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 img {\n\t\t\t\tborder: 2px solid #cfcfcf;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 .gallery-caption {\n\t\t\t\tmargin-left: 0;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t\/* see gallery_shortcode() in wp-includes\/media.php *\/\n\t\t<\/style>\n\t\t<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-21604 gallery-columns-4 gallery-size-medium'><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/blog\/working-womens-wardrobe-how-the-1970s-opened-feminist-fashion\/9to5_ig_carousel_1\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"298\" height=\"300\" src=\"https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5_IG_Carousel_1-298x300.jpg\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium\" alt=\"Illustration of two women \u2014 one with dark skin tone, one with light skin tone \u2014 working in an office and wearing 1970s fashions. A small box reads &quot;Undervalued and underpaid...&quot;\" srcset=\"https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5_IG_Carousel_1-298x300.jpg 298w, https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5_IG_Carousel_1-1192x1200.jpg 1192w, https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5_IG_Carousel_1-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5_IG_Carousel_1-1526x1536.jpg 1526w, https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5_IG_Carousel_1-2034x2048.jpg 2034w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 298px) 100vw, 298px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/blog\/working-womens-wardrobe-how-the-1970s-opened-feminist-fashion\/9to5_ig_carousel_2\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"300\" height=\"300\" src=\"https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5_IG_Carousel_2-300x300.jpg\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium\" alt=\"Colorful, psychedelic, illustrated film poster for &quot;9 to 5: The Story of a Movement&quot; showing three women with various skin tone and wearing 1970s garb. They hold signs that say &quot;Equal Pay for Equal Work.&quot;\" srcset=\"https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5_IG_Carousel_2-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5_IG_Carousel_2-1200x1200.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5_IG_Carousel_2-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5_IG_Carousel_2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5_IG_Carousel_2-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/blog\/working-womens-wardrobe-how-the-1970s-opened-feminist-fashion\/9to5_ig_carousel_3\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"300\" height=\"300\" src=\"https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5_IG_Carousel_3-300x300.jpg\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium\" alt=\"Colorful, psychedelic, illustrated film poster for &quot;9 to 5: The Story of a Movement&quot; showing a group of women with various skin tone and wearing 1970s garb. They hold signs that say &quot;Equal Pay for Women.&quot; The tagline reads: &quot;Find out how it all started.&quot;\" srcset=\"https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5_IG_Carousel_3-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5_IG_Carousel_3-1200x1200.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5_IG_Carousel_3-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5_IG_Carousel_3-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5_IG_Carousel_3-2048x2048.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/blog\/working-womens-wardrobe-how-the-1970s-opened-feminist-fashion\/9to5_ig_carousel_4\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"300\" height=\"300\" src=\"https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5_IG_Carousel_4-300x300.jpg\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium\" alt=\"Colorful, psychedelic, illustrated film poster for &quot;9 to 5: The Story of a Movement&quot; with purple, yellow, and orange lines traversing the poster.\" srcset=\"https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5_IG_Carousel_4-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5_IG_Carousel_4-1200x1200.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5_IG_Carousel_4-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5_IG_Carousel_4-1534x1536.jpg 1534w, https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5_IG_Carousel_4-2046x2048.jpg 2046w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p><strong>From Minis to Midis to Moving On<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In the early 1970s, women were gaining control of their personhood one step at a time\u2014and that included in their closets. The \u201870s marked the first time in history when women could choose their own styles, and not be dictated to by Paris or New York. Before, when designers came up with new trends, entire wardrobes had to be thrown out or modified in order to stay in fashion. That all changed in 1968, when the midi skirt was introduced with the intention of replacing the mini. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The thing was, women just endured a six-year campaign consisting of magazine articles, editorials, runway shows, and ads convincing them to replace their knee-length skirts with minis, and the abrupt change riled them.\u00a0 Women refused to wear the \u201840s-inspired <em>longettes<\/em>, and no amount of ads, fashion shows, or articles convinced them otherwise.<\/span><\/p>\n<p>https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=5UyitAz5UpQ<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">&#8220;Decrees issued from the inner sanctums of the world&#8217;s most prestigious fashion houses aren&#8217;t clicking. Women aren&#8217;t paying attention to sweeping generalizations in fashion. They are approaching fashion subjectively. They&#8217;re wearing clothes that suit them, not designers&#8230;For once, women are captains of their own ships and designers are riding the crest of the trend,&#8221; <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.newspapers.com\/image\/569538498\/?terms=maxi%2Bskirt\"><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The Santa Maria Times<\/span><\/i><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> wrote in 1969.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><strong>Men Dictacting Women&#8217;s Fashion<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But that sense of individuality didn\u2019t extend into the male-run workplace. Women largely dressed in the way they were expected to, the rules of which were laid down by men. And it\u2019s easy to see why they felt the need to dress within these confines: sexism was rampant.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> In 1978, when the leaders of the education division of the United States Department of Health Education and Welfare were asked why all of their top staff members were male, one high official told <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">UPI<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, \u201cThe jobs are very demanding. We often need people who can put in an 80-hour week and we do not want to require this of a mother.&#8221; <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">He also remarked he would be extremely reluctant to have a female special assistant working long hours with him because that might encourage gossip.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In order to work side by side with men in the workplace, women had to stay inconspicuous. But men also wanted to hold onto their status and control, and so women had to be \u201cothered\u201d in their dress. Which was why women\u2019s workwear was largely feminine. Looking different gave employers an excuse to not give women equal opportunities in hiring and advancement.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n\n\t\t<style type=\"text\/css\">\n\t\t\t#gallery-2 {\n\t\t\t\tmargin: auto;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-2 .gallery-item {\n\t\t\t\tfloat: left;\n\t\t\t\tmargin-top: 10px;\n\t\t\t\ttext-align: center;\n\t\t\t\twidth: 33%;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-2 img {\n\t\t\t\tborder: 2px solid #cfcfcf;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-2 .gallery-caption {\n\t\t\t\tmargin-left: 0;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t\/* see gallery_shortcode() in wp-includes\/media.php *\/\n\t\t<\/style>\n\t\t<div id='gallery-2' class='gallery galleryid-21604 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/blog\/working-womens-wardrobe-how-the-1970s-opened-feminist-fashion\/nypl-digitalcollections-6f203d40-aa42-0132-a08c-58d385a7b928-001-w\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/nypl.digitalcollections.6f203d40-aa42-0132-a08c-58d385a7b928.001.w-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"A sewing pattern for a 1970s-style jacket and dress set for women.\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/blog\/working-womens-wardrobe-how-the-1970s-opened-feminist-fashion\/nypl-digitalcollections-ac045b40-aa41-0132-b64f-58d385a7b928-001-w\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/nypl.digitalcollections.ac045b40-aa41-0132-b64f-58d385a7b928.001.w-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"A sewing pattern for a 1970s-style yellow dress for women.\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/blog\/working-womens-wardrobe-how-the-1970s-opened-feminist-fashion\/nypl-digitalcollections-2f887e10-aa64-0132-0689-58d385a7b928-001-w\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/nypl.digitalcollections.2f887e10-aa64-0132-0689-58d385a7b928.001.w-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"A sewing pattern for a 1970s-style green suit for women.\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p><em>What women wore to the office in the late &#8217;60s (via Miriam and Ira D. Wallach Division of Art, Prints and Photographs: Picture Collection, The New York Public Library)<\/em><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">If there weren\u2019t severe workplace consequences for breaking dress codes\u2014like being sent home to change, or being fired\u2014feminists in the first half of the \u201870s would have encouraged women to dress as the men did. They would have encouraged the three \u201cP\u2019s\u201d: pants, pinstripes, and pockets, blurring the line between the sexes in order to get ahead.\u00a0 That is what feminist workplace fashion <em>could<\/em> have looked like, but instead, the majority of women wore skirt suits, pussycat-bow blouses, or feminine pants.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><pullquote class='left'>&#8220;All women look terrible in pants&#8221;\u20141974 male reader of Dear Abby<\/pullquote> It was easy to dismiss women when they dressed feminine, which was why seeing them in pants made society so uncomfortable.\u00a0 \u201cI\u2019ve had several job interviews where people told me that if I were a man I could have the job,\u201d a woman interviewed in the 1970s mentions in <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">9to5: The Story of a Movement. <\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">There were examples of that discomfort everywhere. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In 1971, a woman reporter for <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The Spokesman Review <\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">arrived for a meeting with acclaimed designer Donald Brooks in New York&#8217;s hottest restaurant Cote Basque, when the maitre d&#8217; stopped her at the door, pointing at her pantsuit. &#8220;The hat-check girl ushered me into the ladies&#8217; room, straight pins in hand, suggesting that the pants be &#8216;pinned&#8217; up under my midi coat which was not to be removed,\u201d<\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.newspapers.com\/image\/571816774\/?terms=%22pantsuits%22%20banned&amp;match=1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> she reported.<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">One male reader wrote <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.newspapers.com\/image\/1825789\/?terms=pants%20women%27s%20work%20clothes&amp;match=1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">into a Dear Abby column<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> in 1974 lamenting women in trousers, claiming \u201cthat all women look terrible in pants&#8221; and that women should get back into skirts &#8220;because that really arouses a man.&#8221; Even the President hated to see women in pants. &#8220;Every time I see a girl in slacks,&#8221; Richard Nixon told <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.newspapers.com\/image\/350326069\/?terms=%22pantsuits%22%20banned&amp;match=3\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">White House reporter Helen Thomas in 1973<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, &#8220;it reminds me of China. Do they cost less than gowns?&#8221; When Helen replied, &#8220;No,&#8221; he grinned, &#8220;Then change.&#8221;\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Indeed, women in Congress weren\u2019t able to wear pants until 1993.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><strong>&#8220;Dress for Success&#8221;<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">If feminists had their way, women would arrive to work in masculine pantsuits\u2014with vests, ties, and pocket squares and all\u2014because society wanted the opposite. Instead, most office workers showed up in skirt suits and pantyhose. And if women employees did wear pants, it was with feminine tops, or in hyper-feminine prints and colors.<\/span><\/p>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21618\" src=\"https:\/\/www.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5-striking-working-women.jpg\" alt=\"From &quot;9to5&quot;: Working women protesting wages in the 1970s\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1353\" srcset=\"https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5-striking-working-women.jpg 1600w, https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5-striking-working-women-300x254.jpg 300w, https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5-striking-working-women-1200x1015.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/9to5-striking-working-women-1536x1299.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\" \/>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">John Molloy, the author of 1977&#8217;s <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The Woman&#8217;s Dress for Success Book<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, warned women that dressing too masculine was akin to \u201ca small boy who dresses up in <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/books.google.pl\/books?id=zQ9bWwUa7tYC&amp;dq=women%27s+dress+for+success+1977&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwj1wLiQor3TAhUlSJoKHd7vASwQ6AEIPjAE\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">his father\u2019s clothing<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. He is cute, not authoritative.&#8221; It came across as a woman pretending to be a man. Or more specifically, pretending to hold the power and authority of a man, which would never be hers. \u201cMy research indicates that a three-piece pinstripe suit not only does not add to a woman\u2019s authority, it destroys it. It makes her look like an \u2018imitation man,'&#8221; Molloy concluded. He recommended wearing skirt suits instead.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright \" src=\"https:\/\/i.pinimg.com\/564x\/54\/36\/d5\/5436d5dc241eef3a8cf6ce155d9631d2.jpg\" width=\"460\" height=\"591\" \/>Reading Molloy\u2019s<\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> Dress For Success<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> book, Ann Rinaldi, a Trenton, NJ newspaper columnist, found the whole thing absurd. \u201cBriefly, it occurred to me that nobody had ever written a &#8216;Man&#8217;s Dress For Success Book,&#8217; but then, minutes into it, it all fell into place for me. I am a failure because I don&#8217;t dress right,&#8221; <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.newspapers.com\/image\/454520433\/?terms=john%20t%20molloy&amp;match=1\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">she wrote cheekily.<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> &#8220;I don&#8217;t package myself correctly.&#8221; <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But then she thought briefly, &#8220;How much have we women improved if, just when we&#8217;ve learned to stop packaging ourselves as sex objects, we now allow ourselves to be talked into packing ourselves as authority figures?&#8221;<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Molloy interviewed hundreds of top-level officials and executives to gather data for his book, but the majority of them were predominantly male. That meant his findings reflected what men wanted, and how they expected their women employees to dress \u2014which further encouraged women to play by men\u2019s rules. The pinstripe and three-piece suits would have directly gone against their wishes. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cThe pinstripe suit on a woman is negative\u2014for one reason. It is high-status for men, and you threaten men if you wear it,\u201d <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.newspapers.com\/image\/454520433\/?terms=john%20t%20molloy&amp;match=1\"><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Public Opinion<\/span><\/i><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> wrote in 1979. The \u201cno-nonsense, we-can-do-anything-you-can-do pantsuits&#8221; the <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.newspapers.com\/image\/405736504\/?terms=john%20t%20molloy&amp;match=1\"><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Knight News<\/span><\/i><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> observed, were \u201ca protest against being shoved around in any direction.&#8221;\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><strong>Feminist Fashion<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But as the 9to5 movement began to secure rights for women, and women became respected players in the workforce, the need for a masculine power suit waned. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">That\u2019s why if feminists were in charge of workplace dress codes, they would have switched tracks in the second half of the \u201870s.\u00a0 Instead of pushing masculine pieces on women, feminist fashions would have encouraged women to wear what they themselves thought best. The first half of the decade was about carving out space for women where there was none. The second half was about occupying that space on their own terms.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">And that meant ditching what was \u201cexpected\u201d to be worn, and instead trusting women to choose wardrobes that fit their industry, office, and own comfort. This would include wearing hyper-feminine chevron dresses, sleek pantsuits, high-fashion slit skirts, comfortable chunky-knit sweaters, or anything else women would see fit.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Unfortunately, this was far from the reality of that time. Many women still had strict workplace dress codes, depending on which industry they worked for.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">They were policed, no matter what they wore. Wearing dresses instead of suits made them frivolous; wearing suits instead of dresses made them imitation men; and wearing anything else in between made them superficial or un-serious.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft wp-image-21631\" src=\"https:\/\/www.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/bp081-courtaulds-vincel-1970s.jpg\" alt=\"Vincel ad for women's work wear, 1970s, with tag &quot;Stay cool you've got it made in Vincel&quot;\" width=\"525\" height=\"702\" srcset=\"https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/bp081-courtaulds-vincel-1970s.jpg 748w, https:\/\/dipsy.pbs.org\/independentlens\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/bp081-courtaulds-vincel-1970s-224x300.jpg 224w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 525px) 100vw, 525px\" \/>Women were tired of hearing they had to look a certain way in order to command respect or take up space.\u00a0 In 1978, <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The Guardian<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> in the U.K. <\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">interviewed a group of feminists on their relationship with clothing, and one feminist on the panel pointed out that, &#8220;Women have so often felt pressured into looking as <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">others <\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">want them to look.&#8221;<\/span><\/p>\n<p><strong>Taking Back Fashion in the Workplace<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The feminists explained to <em>The Guardian<\/em>, &#8220;Feminists feel that people should be able to look as they themselves want to look, wear clothes in which they feel happy and comfortable. But this should allow a woman to dress up as well as dress <em>down,<\/em> if that is how she feels at any particular time.&#8221;\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">&#8220;We should feel like full members of society at any given moment of time\u2014whether we&#8217;re at work, at play or out to dinner\u2026,\u201d\u00a0 Elizabeth Fox-Genovese, American historian and a self-proclaimed feminist told a Rochester (NY) newspaper in 1980. \u201cFor women, it [fashion] should reflect what they feel\u2014not what men or a confused society expect them to feel.\u201d That means that a woman should be free to choose whatever workwear she feels most confident and comfortable in, male-created dress codes be damned.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In the early \u201870s, feminist women shed their hyper-feminine pieces as a way to reject chauvinistic fashion norms and \u201cothering&#8221; in the workplace. But in the late \u201870s, there was a period of \u201ctaking back,&#8221; where women embraced individuality and made their own decisions\u2014whether that was wearing a no-nonsense power suit, or a pink chevron dress.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Nowadays, women are still hounded by workplace dress codes, at least in non-pandemic times, which are disguised as \u201cworkplace culture\u201d but mainly aim to \u201cother\u201d them. In 2017, a receptionist at a corporate finance company claimed she was sent home after <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2017\/01\/25\/world\/europe\/high-heels-british-inquiry-dress-codes-women.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">refusing to wear high heels<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. The Cannes Film Festival is infamous for reportedly denying access to premieres to women <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.stylist.co.uk\/fashion\/cannes-2019-high-heels-flat-shoes-ban-dress-code-feminism\/268282\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">who don\u2019t wear heels<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, and there are still plenty of corporations that openly acknowledge they prefer women to <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.businessmanagementdaily.com\/51109\/allowed-tell-women-cant-wear-pants-work\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">wear skirts and pantyhose to work<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The difference is that today these dress codes are met with public outcry and pushback. Thanks to the women of 9to5, limiting women has consequences. True liberation is being able to choose.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p><b><i>Marlen Komar<\/i><\/b><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> is a <\/span><\/i><a href=\"http:\/\/www.marlenkomar.com\/fashion-history-bylines\"><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">fashion history writer <\/span><\/i><\/a><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">based out of Chicago. Her work has appeared in <\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">TIME, CNN Style<\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, and <\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Vox<\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> among other publications.<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>By Marlen Komar In the early 1970s, a group of Boston secretaries came together to improve the working conditions in their offices. Tired of low pay, lack of advancement opportunities, and constant sexual harassment, they created the group 9to5, which would eventually grow into a nationwide revolution that would change the American workplace for women. [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":21621,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1357,1877],"tags":[],"topic":[1239,1262,1227],"class_list":["post-21604","blog","type-blog","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-beyond-the-films","category-lifestyle","topic-identity","topic-labor","topic-women-and-girls"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>How the 1970s Opened Feminist Fashion | Blog | Independent Lens<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Can workwear be feminist? 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